April Weather Statistics
Average
daily high: 73 degrees
Average daily low: 47 degrees
Average rainfall: 3.32 inches
• Check leaves of azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias for
signs of leaf gall disease. Affected leaves will be
unusually thick and waxy. Pinch off these unsightly growths
and discard in the trash.
•Begin spraying fruit trees with a home orchard spray as
soon as the flower petals fade.
•Now is the time to begin to fertilize your warm season
lawn (Bermuda grass or zoysia). Apply a half pound of
nitrogen per 1,000 square feet (five pounds of 10-10-10
over an area 10-by-100 feet). Repeat the application in
June and August.
•Mowing season is in full swing for cool-season lawns. To
reduce weeds and encourage the long, strong root growth
that will better withstand drought, set your mower blade
high; at least 3 inches, but 3.5 inches is better. Mow
frequently at this time of year, removing no more than
one-third of the blade. Leave the clippings on the lawn;
you can reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you add to
your lawn by as much as one-third if you recycle.
•Fertilize established roses when new growth is
approximately 2 inches long. Susceptible plants should be
on a regular spray program to control fungus diseases. If
you’re a rose lover but hate the thought of adhering to a
spray schedule, consider planting one of the many new
disease-resistant roses. Call the Cooperative Extension
Office for recommendations at (336) 570-6740.
•Start seeds of sweet corn, pole beans, lima and snap
beans, cantaloupe, cucumbers, summer squash and watermelons
after April 15. For best success with wind-pollinated sweet
corn, plant in blocks rather than rows.
•Of course you’re anxious for that first vine-ripe tomato,
but wait until the end of the month to set out tomatoes,
peppers and eggplant. These do best when the soil warms up
and night temperatures are a little warmer; closer to 50
degrees.
•Divide, repot and fertilize houseplants before moving them
outdoors at the end of the month.
•When selecting summer annuals, look for short, bushy
plants with green leaves, well-developed root systems and
more buds than flowers. Wait until after danger of frost
(approximately April 15) before planting out in the garden.
•You’ll begin to see evidence of the Eastern Tent
Caterpillar this month. These fuzzy, 2-inch caterpillars
have white stripes down their backs, but are most easily
recognized by the unsightly webs they spin in the crotch of
branches in certain trees. Break open the webs and let
birds and the elements take care of things. No need for
insecticides and never try to burn them out!
• Shape up evergreen shrubs now, but avoid shearing, if
possible. Shearing encourages dense growth on the outermost
part of the plant, leaving interior branches shaded and
leafless. Hand prune from within, cutting back the longest
shoots to a point where they join a main branch. Use a
different technique to prune stringy Nandina domestica. Cut
the longest canes close to the ground. New canes will come
up from the base to give this old-fashioned garden staple a
fuller look and a place in your modern garden.
•Begin spraying fruit trees with a home orchard spray as
soon as the flower petals fade.
•Now is the time to begin to fertilize your warm-season
lawn (Bermuda grass or zoysia). Apply half a pound of
nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Repeat the application in
June and August.
•Fertilize established roses when new growth is
approximately 2 inches long. Susceptible plants should be
on a regular spray program to control fungus diseases. If
you’re a rose lover but hate the thought of adhering to a
spray schedule, consider planting one of the many new
disease-resistant roses. Call the Cooperative Extension
Office for recommendations – 570-6740.
•If yours is a cool-season lawn, mowing season is here! Set
your mower blade high; at least 3 inches, preferably 3-1/2.
Try not to take more than one-third of the grass blade off
when you mow. This may mean mowing more than once a week
this time of year.
•Leave grass clippings on the lawn! They return nutrients
to the soil and reduce the need for additional fertilizer.
You can reduce the amount of nitrogen you add to your lawn
by as much as one-third if you recycle!
•After danger of frost is past – around April 15th – plant
seeds of sweet corn, pole beans, lima and snap beans,
cantaloupe, cucumbers, summer squash, pumpkins, and
watermelons.
•Wait until the end of the month to plant tomatoes, peppers
and eggplant. These do best when night temperatures are a
little warmer, closer to 50 degrees.
•Divide, repot and fertilize houseplants before moving them
outdoors for their summer vacation at the end of the month.
•When selecting summer annuals, look for short, bushy
plants with green leaves, well-developed root systems, and
more buds than flowers. u
• Fertilize warm season grasses such as Bermuda and zoysia
now. Re-apply crabgrass preventer to all lawns around the
15th of the month. Raise lawn mower blade to 3 1/2 inches
for fescue , or lower to 1 1/2 inches for Bermuda lawns.
• Apply fresh mulch to a depth of 2 - 3 inches to border
plantings, trees and shrubs to conserve moisture, keep soil
temperatures cool for the summer and discourage weeds.
• For lasting summer color, continue to plant
summer-flowering bulbs such as cannas, callas, dahlias,
gladiolas, caladiums and elephant ear.
• Prune azaleas, if needed, after they finish flowering.
Next yearÕs flowers will form on growth produced this
summer. Now is the time to fertilize too, if the plants
need a boost.
• Water newly planted shrubs and trees weekly unless there
is an inch or more of natural rainfall.
• To promote branching, pinch out growth tips of
chrysanthemums now. Continue to remove spent flowers from
annuals and perennials to encourage further bloom.
Fertilize annuals monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer.
• May is the preferred time to treat perennial weeds such
as ground ivy, English ivy, oxalis, greenbriar, Virginia
buttonweed and multiflora rose. Call the Alamance County
Cooperative Extension Office for pesticide recommedations
and rates.
• Prior to planting your summer vegetables, incorporate 2
pounds of 10-10-10 in a 100 square foot garden by tilling
to a depth of 4-6 inches. Begin planting lima beans,
southern peas, okra, sweet potatoes, peppers, watermelons
and cantaloupes. Three to four weeks later, side dress at
the rate of 1 pound of 10-10-10. Wait to fertilize tomatoes
until after the first hand of fruit is set.
• Fertilize water garden plants such as lotus and water
lilies once a month. Use a special, pelletized water plant
fertilizer pushed into the soil around the plant. This will
help reduce the risk of nitrogen-induced algae bloom.
• Begin harvesting herbs as soon as the plants have enough
foliage to maintain growth. You may remove as much as
one-half of the plant at a time.
• Prune evergreen shrubs now to shape up and encourage new
growth. Avoid shearing, if possible. Hand prune from
within, cutting back the longest shoots to a point where
they join the main branch. For minimal visual impact,
remove no more than one-third of the plant. Always use
clean pruners to avoid the transference of diseases. Dip
pruners in a 10-percent bleach solution to sanitize.
• It’s about time for the appearance of the Eastern Tent
Caterpillar. These fuzzy, 2-inch caterpillars have white
stripes down their backs, but are most easily recognized by
the unsightly webs they spin in the crotch of branches in
certain trees. Break open the webs and let the birds have a
feast. No need for insecticides and – please – don’t try to
burn them out!
• Unless you’ve switched to one of the new, low-maintenance
cultivars, you’ll need to begin a regular spray program to
prevent fungus diseases on your roses as soon as the first
leaves appear. Control aphids with a sharp stream from the
garden hose.
• Begin spraying fruit trees with a home orchard spray as
soon as the flower petals fade.
• If yours is a lawn of warm-season grass such as Bermuda
or zoysia, now is the time to fertilize. Apply 1/2 pound of
nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Repeat the application in
June and in August.
• If yours is a cool-season lawn, mowing season is here!
Set your mower blade high; at least 3 inches, preferably
3-1/2. Try not to take more than one-third of the blade off
when you mow. If you were heavy-handed with the fertilizer,
this may mean mowing more than once a week!
• After the danger of frost is past – around April 15th –
start planting seeds of sweet corn, pole beans, lima and
snap beans, cantaloupe, cucumbers, summer squash, pumpkins
and watermelons.
• Wait until the end of the month to plant tomatoes,
peppers and eggplant. These do best when nighttime
temperatures are closer to 50 degrees.
• Divide, repot and fertilize houseplants before moving
them outdoors for their summer vacation at the end of the
month.
• When selecting summer annuals, look for short, bushy
plants with green leaves, well-developed root systems, and
more buds than flowers.
